Sakura misses the mark

Sakura Sushi & Hibachi
7951 One Calais Ave
Baton Rouge, LA 70809
(225) 766-2088

Hello after a long time, EBR-ites. My quest for the best things to eat in Red Stick recently brought me by the recently opened Sakura Sushi Bar and Hibachi, housed in that little piece of real estate hell known as One Calais, in the building that has previously been the dining kiss-of-death for such forgettable attempts as Louisiana Pizza Kitchen and (most recently) Vincent's Italian Cuisine in addition to countless others.

After shoehorning the old SUV into one of Sakura's limited parking spaces, we were greeted by the charming spectacle of busboys congregated outside the front entrance having a smoke. We entered the foyer to be greeted by a pleasant smiling hostess asking us whether we wanted to eat "traditional or sushi," which was a bit of a head-scratcher as I've never known those two terms to be mutually exclusive. Apparently, what she meant was sushi-bar seating, or seating in the cavernous, maze-like dining room. Seriously- this place is huge, looking even bigger inside than one would surmise from viewing the exterior. We were seated in the hinterlands of one of the rear dining rooms- an outpost so removed from the rest of the restaurant that we thought we might have to order via telegraph or carrier pigeon. It was an odd sensation to go from the bamboo and black lacquer cliche' of the foyer to the warm beige and ochre dining room- completely unchanged from its previous incarnation as Vincent's, right down to the paintings of Venice on the wall. Even the pens we were given to fill out our sushi slips were still labeled as Vincent's- I guess they came with the paintings. We sat bathed in hellishly bright ceiling mounted floodlights that didn't exactly scream "atmosphere." Feeling like french fries ready for pickup, we decided to press on.

Our meal began after a drink order from a rather surly server, whose frustrated visage belied her attempts at being nice and polite. We thought it might be because they appeared to be slow this night- odd, considering it was the first Friday night during Lent in south Louisiana. Our server clarified with surprising candor- it seems they were breaking in a new manager (apparently just having fired the old one) and the transition wasn't going so smoothly. A passing server stopped to chime in, and it looked as though there might be mutiny. Throwing caution to the wind, we elected to press on, trying the "Sushi for 2" ($32) which features 18 pieces of chef-selected sushi, a California Roll, a spicy tuna roll, and tempura roll, along with a salad and miso soup. The soup and salad arrived first. The miso soup was terribly watery, thin, and lacking flavor. Moving on the salad, we found bagged iceberg lettuce mix topped with a bottled ginger dressing. Neither of these first two courses were finished. Mercifully, the sushi arrived next on a huge white platter. It was presented beautifully, fanned out from the center like a star, with rolls on each corner and a little tree made from an herb sprig planted in a mound of wasabi. Nice!

Our buoyed spirits were short-lived though, as the sushi failed to deliver on its promise. The salmon and tuna nigiri were good, although under seasoned- no sweet-and-vinegary tang in the rice, no wasabi under the fish. This made for a rather bland bite as the fish itself lacked in flavor. The shrimp nigiri was old and brown around the edges- unpalatable. The snapper had an off-scent. The whitefish garnished with green onions was better, surpassing the rubbery fluke alongside it. We ate what we could stomach and left the rest behind. Our server passed by once with an "Any complaints?" which there surely were, but her bluntness left me speechless. After it became apparent that the order of a second glass of wine had been missed, we elected to make for the exits.

I'm not sure whether Sakura is a lost cause, but it is certainly teetering on the brink. Half-empty on a night it should be packed with hungry Catholics, it doesn't look good. Sakura seems to lack focus... it's menu is all over the place, trying to be all things to all people (there is a full Chinese menu as well, which is concerning in a place that bills itself as a sushi restaurant)- and misses its target altogether. It has no brand, no vibe, no consistent feel, this Asian mess stuffed into an old Italian joint. Perhaps the new manager was warranted considering the lack of discipline and professionalism displayed by the staff- and if they get that turned around, and get the kitchen committed to delivering FRESH food made with care- Sakura has a shot. This night, though, Sakura had the feel of a loose ship tottering on a uneven keel.