Mason's hits a home run worthy of the hype.

Mason's Grill
13556 Jefferson Highway
Baton Rouge, LA 70817
(225) 756-8815

 Greetings, EBR-ites. When it comes to burgers, yours truly is something of a purist. With rare exception, I prefer quality ingredients and simple, quality preparation over tons of gimmicky ingredients, or sheer excess for excess's sake. (The dearly departed Times Grille's Hawaiian Burger being a notable and delicious exception.)


So, it was with a jaundiced eye that I finally made my way over to Mason's Grill on Old Jefferson to take a crack at their much-ballyhooed 'Cajun Shrimp Burger," a star of their menu and of the Food Network as well. We rolled in on a Thursday for lunch, wading through a packed parking lot to be led to a table in Mason's spacious interior. Service proved to be a bit aloof- our server seemed a bit disinterested and then pushy by turns. It was a busy lunch service, and her impatience was palpable. We ordered the signature burger along with what seemed a natural complement of onion rings.

On this day, Mason's perhaps wasn't the best choice for a quick workday lunch. Our food took an inordinately long time to arrive, to the point where our mouths were watering as our neighboring tables got a wide selection of grilled fish, steaks, and of course, these signature burgers. It is said that good things come to those who wait,  and Mason's did not disappoint.

The Cajun Shrimp Burger arrived in all its splendor, redolent of shrimp and cheese, with crisp red onion slices, fresh tomatoes, and a small heap of fragrant onion rings. So fragrant, in fact, that they were chosen for our first bites. They were perfectly cooked, crispy yet light, not soggy in the least, and not mouth-searingly hot- just scrumptious. The burger, when assembled into all of its vertical glory, proved to be quite a handful- literally. Deciding that discretion would be the better part of valor today, we elected to break proper burger etiquette and cut this mammoth into more manageable pieces.

The explosion of flavor that followed was more than just the sum of its parts. The bun was soft, made of quality bread (an overlooked factor in lots of burgers) with almost a sweet finish. The burger was  cooked a perfect medium, keeping it juicy and flavorful inside, and it had a nice char on the outside which blended nicely with a topping made up of grilled shrimp, jack cheese, and jalapeno peppers.
I'll admit i thought shrimp and hamburger might be a dubious combination, but this surf-and-turf on a bun was a surefire winner. It ended in a juicy, satisfying mess requiring extra napkins to clean up, as any respectable burger should.

It's not cheap -a hair under $11- but the Mason's Grill Cajun Shrimp Burger lives up to the hype. It's worth checking out, and will be a strong contender for our year-end Best of Baton Rouge awards.

RECIPE: Piperada (Basque-style eggs)

From "Spain: Authentic Regional Recipes" by M. Teresa Segura
Perfect for brunch or tapas, from the Pyrenees to your table...

Ingredients:
4 tbsp. olive oil, preferably Spanish
2 small onions, peeled and finely diced
1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 sliced cured ham, cut into strips
2 large tomatoes, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
4 eggs
chopped parsley, to garnish

Serves 2


Heat the oil in a skillet and saute' the onions, bell peppers, and garlic until tender. Fold in the ham and tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Continue to heat until the vegetables are almost cooked.

Lightly beat eggs with a fork. Pour the eggs over the vegetables and cook over low heat until the eggs are thick but still soft. Garnish with parsley and serve warm.

EBR's Best of Baton Rouge: Latte e Miele Gelateria and Coffeehouse

Latte e Miele Gelato
17650 Highland Rd. Ste. A
Baton Rouge, LA 70810
Open Seven Days A Week 10am-10pm
(225) 751-4555
info@latteemielegelato.com



Not unlike the rest of America, Baton Rouge can sometimes appear to be nothing more than vast stretches of strip-mall chain mediocrity- soullessly effective in delivering sustenance to the masses, but lacking in quality, sophistication, and craft.
Luckily, every once in a while, you can stumble upon a jewel. So it was, when a sold out movie and three subsequently disappointed kids led to an impromptu search for that universal salve of children the world round- ice cream. EBR! had heard whispers of Latte e Miele and its transcendental gelatos, and set out down Highland Road on a cloudy Saturday to invoke the healing powers of gelato.




Just past the Country Club of Louisiana and before I-10, Latte e Miele (milk and honey, in Italian) lies nestled in (gasp!) a strip mall, albeit one of the snazzier versions that populate the CCLA area to serve its ritzy clientele. Occupying a bright, cheery interior, Latte e Miele just looks like a happy place, clean and colorful, dominated by a double case only half full with delectable offerings. The gelatos are are available two flavors to a small cup, ($4) or three flavors to a large cup or waffle cone ($6). Some of the flavors that shined this day were the Bacio Kiss, a chocolate hazelnut truffle-flavored gelato. It has a luxurious mouth feel, smooth and rich- reminiscent of Nutella, or more accurately, an ice cream version of a Ferrero Rocher. Divine! Also sublime was the black cherry yogurt, smooth and tangy white yogurt with fresh black cherry bits and sauce- a real home run. It was joined in receiving high marks by the Stracciatella (Chocolate Chip) gelato. Latte E Miele also offers several fruit based items, from the creamy strawberry sorbetto to an Italian Ice-like lemon sorbetto, bright and refreshing.




In addition to its gelato cups, Latte E Miele features a formidable selection of sundaes ($10) highlighted by its namesake dessert, the Latte E Miele Sundae- described as a simple cream gelato complimented with a topping of seasonal fresh fruit, and drizzled with Louisiana Orange Blossom Honey... Molto Bene!
For chocolate fans, there's also something for you.. the award-winning Colosseo a traditional Perugian chocolate sundae. Or try the Spaghetti... cream gelato extracted to look like noodles, covered in strawberry sauce to mimic the tomato sauce, even topped with coconut shavings impersonating parmesan cheese. Kids are sure to love this one.

Latte E Miele is also a coffeehouse, offering Italian espressos, capuccinos,teas, and specialty coffee drinks like the Affogato($5), which combines two scoops of their mouth-watering gelato topped with a shot of Bistrot espresso and fresh homemade whipped cream.

Gelato is a wonderful treat, more intensely flavored and lower in fat than most commercial ice creams. Latte E Miele delivers its deliciousness with an eye toward quality and an artisanal touch.

Latte E Miele- the newest member of Eat Baton Rouge!'s Best of Baton Rouge. Bellissimo!

Eat Baton Rouge! is back!

Hello EBR-ites, just a quick note to let you know NIls is back on duty eating, and reviewing the best that Red Stick and its environs have to offer.
Check back soon for some new content after a very long lay off. Thanks for reading and bon appetit!

Eat Baton Rouge! Quick Bites: Montana's Restaurante

Check out one of EBR's! Favorites... Montana's Restaurante y Supermercado on Coursey... in addition to offering BR's only Colombian food (try the Arepas), they are now offering a Honduran menu. EBR's will sample it soon and return with full report. Muchas Gracias!

Bistro Byronz: The Good Gets Better

Hey all,

Just a little note I just got that one of EBR!'s favorites, Bistro Byronz, is adding some promising new menu items:



ABITA CHOPS

French cut pork chops marinaded in Abita Root Beer,

served w/ onion roasted potatoes & grilled asparagus

CHICKEN ST LANDRY

Flattened chicken breast topped with a tasso creme sauce,

served w/a savory mushroom bread pudding

PUDDING DU PAIN

Homemade savory mushroom bread pudding accompanied by our Mimi Salad

TURKEY AVOCADO SUPREME

Our traditional avocado supreme sandwich (avocado, lettuce, tomato,

sprouts & balsamic drizzle) topped off w/ a mound of turkey - now that's real good



Go support this local eatery, and then tell me how it was!

Get You Sum.

Dim Sum Seafood Restaurant
9431 Delcourt Ave
Baton Rouge, LA 70815-4127
(225) 924-3550


You've seen them... ubiquitous, it seems, on nearly every street corner in south Baton Rouge... the strip mall Chinese restaurant. Sadly, this is what has come to define the cuisine of China to many- the picture menus, the ordering by combo number, the same ingredients, precooked, trucked in from the port of Houston from some faceless, soulless warehouse in some godforsaken place like Bay City or Pasadena.
This obscenity ignores the thousands of years of the culinary culture of China- the regional dishes, the small courses of bliss, the traditional delicacies.
I have heard rumblings that at least one place in the metro B.R. still delivers these goods- and so, tucked away a block off Airline Highway in a nondescript building, I find Dim Sum.

Dim Sum means "a bit of heart" in Chinese, and that proved to be an apt description of what I found here... authentic food, prepared without pretense, simple and satisfying. I arrived a little late for lunch this day, and was concerned to find few cars in the parking lot, and save one table, I appeared to have the spacious dining room to myself. Upon entering, I am presented with two menus- one, a list of dim sum courses complete with an accompanying flip book of pictures for hapless gaijin like myself, and the other a menu of the McChinese offerings we've all come to know. Since I've eaten enough sweet-and-sour pork and sesame chicken to last me a lifetime, I boldly go the Dim Sum route. Dim Sum refers to a series of small courses served with tea- in this case ranging from around $3-5 bucks a piece, with four or so making a tidy lunch.

Perhaps sensing my uncertainty, I am guided by a most helpful employee by the name of Amy who, for the next hour, serves as my culinary tour guide. She also explains why I have the place to myself today... their big crowds come on the weekends, when large Asian families show up for a taste of the traditional, traveling from neighboring states in some cases to get a bite of some things you just can't get in most Chinese restaurants around here. Under Amy's steady hand, I make my choices- Cha Siu Bao ($2.50 for 3) a sort of bready dumpling filled with minced Chinese barbecued pork; the Siu Mai ($2.90 for 4) rice flour dumplings stuffed with pork, and the Ha Gow ($3.25 for 4)- pleated, translucent shrimp dumplings that seem born to be married with the soy sauce and homemade chili oil that stand on every table.
Since Dim Sum is made to be served with tea, I opt for a hot pot of Oolong, one of the many varieties Dim Sum offers.
The Cha Siu Bao look like they might be heavy or floury, but what I find is a light texture, slightly sweet, and filled with delicious minced pork bits in a Chinese barbecue sauce. On to the Siu Mai, these are moist, flavorful bits of pork stuffing in dumplings that took particularly well to the aforementioned chili oil. The Ha Gow were fantastic- snappy shrimp inside a translucent dumpling that releases juicy, delicious broth with every bite.
On the spot I resolve to return, as I have only scratched the surface... if you consider these as appetizers, there are also main courses- stir fries of rice noodles, vegetable stir fries, wontons, and an array of chef's specials ranging from the traditional clay pot dished that are sure to be my next meal here, to daily specials and fresh curries, even steamed whole fish.
If you are looking to break out of combo meal Chinese, make the trip to Dim Sum and experiment a little- you'll get a little taste of Hong Kong one small place at a time.

Sol Food

El Sol de Guerrero #1 (La Tiendita)
6031 Siegen Lane
Baton Rouge, LA
(225) 293-0879
Hours: Mon-Sat. 8:30am - 8:30pm
Closed Sunday


By now, readers of EBR can probably guess I have something of a taqueria-fetish. Finding the best of taqueria food in all the new spots popping up around Baton Rouge and its environs has become something of a quest for me. The simplicity and sincerity of the food served in these joints has pretty much ruined me for the Tex-Mex that used to be Baton Rouge's only choice for south-of-the-border fare.

Scratching another name off of my hit list in this way brought me to El Sol de Guerrero- "The sun of the soldier" en Espanol- a restaurant serving authentic Mexican food attached, as so many are, to a little Mexican grocery named "La Tiendita." Most people I've spoken with refer to the restaurant as such, as well.

Whatever you might call it, there is no mistaking that this place can be counted among Baton Rouge's hidden little treasures. The restaurant is a clean, attractive space- nicer than some similar outfits that have a restaurant as more of an afterthought in comparison to their groceries. I was met by a smiling server with a fresh, hot basket of tortilla chips- something I've found oddly inconsistent in taquerias like this. These were light, crispy, perfectly salted and served with a fresh salsa mexicana. Shortly afterward, two huge squeeze bottles of salsa verde and salsa rojo arrived as well. The verde was spot-on, a tangy mix of tomatillos, garlic, roasted peppers and cilantro.
The rojo is a bigger flavor, all smoky chiles and piquant notes.

First up was an order of one of my taqueria litmus tests...Tacos Al Pastor. Marinated, grilled pork sliced off a rotisserie, shawarma-style, served in a warm corn tortilla garnished with chopped red onion, pineapple, cilantro, and a squeeze of fresh lime. Like pizza, when these are average, they're still pretty good... and when they are great, they become truly transcendental. El Sol's version are of the latter type... in fact, I think they might just take the title of Baton Rouge's best taco away from previous champ El Paste Dorado. At a smooth $1.95 a piece, these could be the single best food deal in Red Stick. You can also add rice, beans, and salad for a paltry $2.95 more for a more complete dinner.

I also sampled the Burrito Asada ($4.95)- a large flour tortilla filled with cheese, beans, rice, sour cream, guacamole, tomatoes, lettuce, and carne asada (marinated, grilled skirt steak.) This was an all-around winner... served piping hot, it was a stick-to-your-ribs satisfying offering. The meat was flavorful and well seasoned, and when forkfuls of this burrito were doused with the aformentioned salsas, taste went to the next level- not enough to beat defending champ Juanita's Supermercado y Taqueria's sublime burritos, but certainly very, very good in its own right.

Lastly, we made a run at the Enchiladas Verdes de Pollo ($7.95), shredded chicken stuffed and rolled in corn tortillas topped with a tangy tomatillo sauce and a sprinkling of crumbled queso blanco. These were served with the requisite rice and beans side, both of which were good if not remarkable. The enchiladas were plenty tasty, a simple preparation in a peasant style which made for a delicious, filling lunch if a bit low on the "wow" factor.

I came away suitably impressed from this visit, one made all the much gladder when I realized how close El Sol is to the Eat Baton Rouge! world headquarters. I've already planned a return mission to eat more of those tacos, as well as some of the daily specials and seafood offerings. Buen Provecho, indeed.

One last tip- skip the soft drinks, even the tempting Mexican Coca-Colas, in favor of El Sol's thirst-quenching aguas frescas (tamarindo is my fave) or horchatas. You'll tell me muchas gracias later.

Here we grow again...

Hello again, EBR-ites. Just wanted to let you know that beginning soon, reviews by yours truly will be begin appearing at the newly-launched redsticklive.com. Check it out! Big thanks to Jeremy Harper for seeking me out and presenting me with this opportunity. Be sure to check out redsticklive.com's awesome features like Baton Rouge photo galleries, arts, music, and community postings, and even a place where you can contribute! Tres' cool.

A reminder- if you are the kind of person who likes to combine his passions (like food and LSU sports, for example) you can also catch the latest from Eat Baton Rouge! on the Food & Drink Blogs section of tigerdroppings.com. Mangia!

COOLinary Cranks Up In The Crescent City!

Get ready to savor the summer! COOLinary 2009 kicks off August 1st!


It's the most delicious time of year again! COOLinary 2009 will take place this August & September in restaurants all throughout the city. Enjoy a delicious New Orleans meal for less...Lunches are priced at $20 or less and dinner at $34 or less. Restaurants are signing up everyday so keep checking the COOLinary website for menus, specials and more!
http://www.neworleanscvb.com/restaurants/calendar/index.cfm/sectionID/1/subsectionID/11/

Benefit For Ritz Chef Matt Murphy June 14, $65

Thanks to Tom Fitzmorris for getting this out there:


Matt Murphy--the extraordinarily likeable, Irish-born chef of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel--is clinging to life at Ochsner Hospital right now. An invasive streptococcus infection has led to DIC--a condition in which blood clots form and interrupt normal blood flow throughout the body, causing organs to shut down.

He is in intensive care, and in need of blood donations. Go to Ochsner's Blood Bank at its Jefferson Highway facility if you can help.

What makes this particularly worthy of your generosity is that Matt and his wife are the parents of eighteen-month-old quadruplets. And they have another child on the way. This raises the spectre of a family financial crisis. A fund to help Matt's family has been established at Capital One Bank. It's called the Matthew J. Murphy Donation Account, #2077720319. Donations will be accepted at any Capital One branch.

As they always do, the chefs of the city have rallied around this worthy cause. There will be a fundraising benefit at the Ritz-Carlton on Sunday, June 14, 4-8 p.m. It is underpriced at $65; I recommend you give $100. Call 504-670-2828 to nail down tickets. Here's a partial list (more are signing on daily) of the chefs who'll be there serving food:

* Scott Boswell (Stella!)
* Justin Devillier (La Petit Grocery)
* Tenney Flynn (GW Fins)
* Donald Link (Herbsaint and Cochon)
* John Folse
* Bob Iacovone (Cuvee)
* Brian Landry (Galatoire's)
* Duke LoCicero (Cafe Giovanni)
* Jean Luc Albin (Maurice's French Pastries)
* Gus Martin (Muriel's)
* Mark Quitney (New Orleans Marriott)
* Greg Reggio (Zea)
* Jacques Saleun (Chateau du Lac)
* Susan Spicer (Bayona)
* Chuck Subra (La Cote Brasserie)
* Kevin Vizard (Vizard's)

Eat Baton Rouge's Best of Baton Rouge

BATON ROUGE'S BEST THAI BUFFET:

Thai Kitchen
4335 Perkins Rd
Baton Rouge, LA 70808
(225) 346-1230
www.thaikitchenexpress.com

With due deference to the excellent forerunner Rama Thai on Perkins, Thai Kitchen has emerged as the Capital City's most consistent spot for lunch from the Land of Smiles. Thai Kitchen's buffet features good variety and consistent quality... curries, Pad Thai,salads, soups, and even sushi. Thai Kitchen is also the home of the city's best Tom Kha Gai- the coconut-chicken soup that is a delicious staple of Thai cookery.

Bistro Byronz c'est magnifique.

BISTRO BYRONZ
5412 GOVERNMENT STREET
BATON ROUGE LOUISIANA 70806 - 225-218-1433

Hello again, Baton Rouge foodies.... EBR! is proud to bring you another report on the Capital City's most famous- and infamous- eateries.
We had the pleasure of revisiting one of our darlings- Bistro Byronz. We've come to appreciate the consistency and value Byronz provides, and our latest trip did not disappoint.
Byronz aspires to nail the brasserie aesthetic... replete in black and white tile, frosted glass and faux antique fixtures. Located in a renovated old house on Government Street, it makes for a comely combination of homey and chic.
We were greeted and seated promptly by a hostess decked out in a french white apron, and our orders were taken with little delay. Byronz features a brasserie-style menu featuring everything from the sandwiches which made the old Byronz famous, to hors d'oeuvres like the savory and delicious blue cheese chips,succulent salads like the Steak Frites salad (more on that later) soups, a la carte sides, and entrees.

Since there was a bit of a chill in the air the evening of our visit, we began with a pair of soups- the Corn & Shrimp ($4.45) and the Sweet Corn & Crab ($ 4.45). The Corn and Shrimp featured its star ingredients in a tomato-ey broth with a spicy kick. It's a bit jarring at first for those more accustomed to a sweeter corn and shrimp soup, but still satisfies with sinus-clearing blend of big, bold flavors. The Sweet Corn & Crab arrives as a thicker, cream based bisque with kernels of corn and chunks of claw crab meat suspended in it. Though a bit toothsome, this soup had great flavor and hit the spot.
In keeping with the comfort food angle we had working, Bistro Byronz's Pot Roast Creole ($13.95)was up next.A fresh green salad tossed in Byronz's house vinaigrette was followed with a hefty serving of fork-tender pot roast reeking of beefy, winy goodness. Accompanying it came the requisite side of garlic mashed potatoes with a flavorful gravy, and a serving of home style french green beans. This was a formidable meal in portion- big, stick-to-your ribs fare. While it was satisfying, it lacked any wow factor, any little thing that might truly set it apart and make it unique. One key ingredient, a little truffle oil or something similarly special would have taken this already good dish to the next level. We'd have liked to see them "chef it up" just a little. Still, we weren't disappointed.
We also tried the Steak Frites Salad, ($13.95) the salad version of Bistro Byronz popular brasserie staple, Steak Frites ($19.95). Seared and sliced Filet Mignon is served atop bed of crunchy romaine lettuce,topped with bleu cheese crumbles and a delicious cane vinaigrette. Layered on top of that is the hallmark of any decent brasserie worthy of the name- perfectly cooked, crispy, thin frites- what God intended French Fries to be. It may seem anathema to put fries on a salad,but here it's just what the doctor ordered- a salty, crunchy counter punch to the rich beef and pungent cheese, just screaming out for a glass of red to complete your trip to nirvana.
If the frites were cooked in duck fat, this dish would become truly otherworldly, but for now it will just have to settle for being the best salad in Baton Rouge.
We ended the evening over a piece of the Key Lime Pie ($5.95). It was a tasty finale, but not memorable... next time we might opt instead for the Heavenly Hash Supreme, or on a chilly night like this one, the Bistro Bread Pudding.
Bistro Byronz is a perfect date night stop that hits all the high notes- good, unpretentious food served in chic, charming atmosphere that won't break the bank, best of all. C'est Magnifique!

Sakura misses the mark

Sakura Sushi & Hibachi
7951 One Calais Ave
Baton Rouge, LA 70809
(225) 766-2088

Hello after a long time, EBR-ites. My quest for the best things to eat in Red Stick recently brought me by the recently opened Sakura Sushi Bar and Hibachi, housed in that little piece of real estate hell known as One Calais, in the building that has previously been the dining kiss-of-death for such forgettable attempts as Louisiana Pizza Kitchen and (most recently) Vincent's Italian Cuisine in addition to countless others.

After shoehorning the old SUV into one of Sakura's limited parking spaces, we were greeted by the charming spectacle of busboys congregated outside the front entrance having a smoke. We entered the foyer to be greeted by a pleasant smiling hostess asking us whether we wanted to eat "traditional or sushi," which was a bit of a head-scratcher as I've never known those two terms to be mutually exclusive. Apparently, what she meant was sushi-bar seating, or seating in the cavernous, maze-like dining room. Seriously- this place is huge, looking even bigger inside than one would surmise from viewing the exterior. We were seated in the hinterlands of one of the rear dining rooms- an outpost so removed from the rest of the restaurant that we thought we might have to order via telegraph or carrier pigeon. It was an odd sensation to go from the bamboo and black lacquer cliche' of the foyer to the warm beige and ochre dining room- completely unchanged from its previous incarnation as Vincent's, right down to the paintings of Venice on the wall. Even the pens we were given to fill out our sushi slips were still labeled as Vincent's- I guess they came with the paintings. We sat bathed in hellishly bright ceiling mounted floodlights that didn't exactly scream "atmosphere." Feeling like french fries ready for pickup, we decided to press on.

Our meal began after a drink order from a rather surly server, whose frustrated visage belied her attempts at being nice and polite. We thought it might be because they appeared to be slow this night- odd, considering it was the first Friday night during Lent in south Louisiana. Our server clarified with surprising candor- it seems they were breaking in a new manager (apparently just having fired the old one) and the transition wasn't going so smoothly. A passing server stopped to chime in, and it looked as though there might be mutiny. Throwing caution to the wind, we elected to press on, trying the "Sushi for 2" ($32) which features 18 pieces of chef-selected sushi, a California Roll, a spicy tuna roll, and tempura roll, along with a salad and miso soup. The soup and salad arrived first. The miso soup was terribly watery, thin, and lacking flavor. Moving on the salad, we found bagged iceberg lettuce mix topped with a bottled ginger dressing. Neither of these first two courses were finished. Mercifully, the sushi arrived next on a huge white platter. It was presented beautifully, fanned out from the center like a star, with rolls on each corner and a little tree made from an herb sprig planted in a mound of wasabi. Nice!

Our buoyed spirits were short-lived though, as the sushi failed to deliver on its promise. The salmon and tuna nigiri were good, although under seasoned- no sweet-and-vinegary tang in the rice, no wasabi under the fish. This made for a rather bland bite as the fish itself lacked in flavor. The shrimp nigiri was old and brown around the edges- unpalatable. The snapper had an off-scent. The whitefish garnished with green onions was better, surpassing the rubbery fluke alongside it. We ate what we could stomach and left the rest behind. Our server passed by once with an "Any complaints?" which there surely were, but her bluntness left me speechless. After it became apparent that the order of a second glass of wine had been missed, we elected to make for the exits.

I'm not sure whether Sakura is a lost cause, but it is certainly teetering on the brink. Half-empty on a night it should be packed with hungry Catholics, it doesn't look good. Sakura seems to lack focus... it's menu is all over the place, trying to be all things to all people (there is a full Chinese menu as well, which is concerning in a place that bills itself as a sushi restaurant)- and misses its target altogether. It has no brand, no vibe, no consistent feel, this Asian mess stuffed into an old Italian joint. Perhaps the new manager was warranted considering the lack of discipline and professionalism displayed by the staff- and if they get that turned around, and get the kitchen committed to delivering FRESH food made with care- Sakura has a shot. This night, though, Sakura had the feel of a loose ship tottering on a uneven keel.

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Soaking up Philly like a sponge...

353 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd., Baton Rouge, 70816. Phone: 225-293-1003

Some of life's greatest pleasures are simple. In a sense it's harder to make a dish with only a few ingredients really sing than to create an ornate, involved dish. There's nothing to distract, nothing to mask or hide less than fresh ingredients or flawed preparation. In the same vein, as someone who eats out a lot sometimes I have to set aside the beurres blanc and demiglaces and curries and whatnot and just go get something simple and good... the perfect burger, some fried chicken and another of my favorites, a good Philly cheese steak. Alas, an authentic Philly has usually been very hard to find in a town like Red Stick. There are many pretenders, but most folks here just don't really nail it, as there are few here who've actually had the real McCoy to use as a frame of reference.
When I stumbled across South of Philly- newly arrived on Sherwood Forest Boulevard, I approached with a bit of skepticism. S.O.P.'s menu claims "Authentic Philadelphia Cheese Steaks and More", so I set to put them to the test. Entering the restaurant, I felt as if I had stumbled onto the set of Sponge Bob Square Pants... in its previous incarnation, this space was obviously a seafood joint, complete with the requisite aqua paint scheme and kitschy nautical nonsense on the walls. So far, it seems, the decor hasn't caught up with the new cuisine. Resisting the urge to order in me finest pirate voice, I approached the counter and observed my first good sign-literally. Above the counters was a bright sign explaining the proper ritual for ordering a cheese steak. Starting with size, and "wit" or "witout" onions, and what kind of cheese, you tell them how to make your masterpiece. Normally I like provolone on steak sandwiches, but in the interest of authenticity, I ordered mine as God intended in the City of Brotherly Love- with onions and yes, Cheez Whiz. Cheez Wiz? Yes. Cheez-freaking-Whiz. Those looking for a less authentic Philly experience can also opt for American, Provolone, or Mozzarella.

Lesser cheese steak purveyors use cheap minute steaks, so my validating experience continued when my Philly arrives full of minced rib eye, sauteed onions, and Cheez Whiz on Amoroso bread- the real Philly cheese steak bread served in Philadelphia. There's only so much waxing poetic I can do, but suffice it to say I was blown away by this cheese steak... a hot, fresh, satisfying meal. The bread was fresh, hot, and soft. The minced rib eye was hot and juicy, the onions perfectly caramelized around the edges, and the cheese melted perfectly on top. Another pleasant surprise came in the form of the fries served on the side of the Philly- too often, a soggy afterthought. These fries were hot and crispy, and still had the skin on like honest-to-goodness home fries- like fries should be. When it comes to their signature dish, South of Philly hits a real home run.

South of Philly also offers other Philly-based sandwiches like pepper steak, pizza steaks, and mushroom steaks, all in $6 to $10 range. SOP also offers an array of poboys, or a build your own burger setup for those less enamored with the pinnacle of Pennsylvania cuisine. For me, though, I've found a new home in which to scratch my cheese steak cravings. So, don your lime green jogging suit and gold chains, and head over to Sherwood Forest to soak up a taste of Philly like a sponge.

Celebrate Valentine's Day with Carrabba's... that's amore'!

This year Valentines Day falls on a Saturday, and many people will avoid the weekend crowds by dining out earlier in the week. That's why Carrabba's is offering consumers the ultimate pre-Valentine's Day celebration "Dal Cuore Nights," meaning "From the Heart Nights" at Carrabba's.

About The Dal Cuore Nights Celebration

• The Dal Cuore Nights celebration includes a Prix Fixe Menu (Less than $20 per person) and $10 off any bottle of wine, including Ruffino's Dal Cuore di Carrabba wine, a limited-edition baby Super Tuscan created exclusively for Carrabbass. The prix fixe menu includes an appetizer, entreé and mini-dessert. Featured entreés include Carrabba's favorites such as Sirloin Marsala, Chicken Bryan, Chicken Marsala, Polo Rosa Maria and Grilled Salmon with the sauce of the day.
• Topping off the evening, guests on February 11 and 12 will receive a special Dal Cuore Valentine's Day Card featuring a "heartfelt" quote. One lucky quote recipient will win a romantic Italian escape for two including 7 night cruise and airfare. Beginning Sunday, March 1, 2009, the winning quote will be revealed on Carrabba's website at www.carrabbas.com, where complete details are available.

Eat Baton Rouge Quick Bites: Importfood.com

If you are an aficionado of Thai food, check out importfood.com- it's my favorite online Thai grocery store and recipe site. It's got all the traditional recipes that you'd find in most American Thai restaurants as well as some street vendor food recipes that are dy-no-mite. If you have trouble finding Thai ingredients where you live, those are available too... and not just canned or boxed mixes- they also have fresh ingredients like lemon grass or kaffir lime leaves they can ship right to your door. There is also a section for Thai cookware featuring hot pots, mortars-and-pestles, and other de rigeur Thai kitchen equipment.Sawadee!

Derek Chang's Koto

Derek Chang's Koto Japanese Restaurant
3023 College Drive
Baton Rouge
225.924.1980
http://www.kotoofjapan.com/


Sometimes first impressions can be wrong. It's also said that everyone deserves a second chance. I've visited Koto in the past, leaving less than blown away by what I found. Lately, perhaps due to its impending move into a plush new space off Corporate Boulevard, Koto is being talked about more and more. I'd gotten several reports as to Derek Chang's sushi-roll wizardry of late, followed by looks of blank incredulity when I opined that there were other Baton Rouge area sushi spots that I felt were more deserving of my yen. Things change, I thought to myself, and harkening back to my own experience working the line, I knew that some days just aren't good days at every restaurant- so, with a spirit of redemption, I dropped in to Koto for a workday lunch to see what the fuss is about. Sans dining company and a luxe expense account, I opted for a sushi bento box ($11.50) and Koto's signature roll, 'The Bomb' ($8.00) to get a representative sample of Koto's offerings.

I was seated at the sushi bar, and greeted promptly by a server with a steaming hot hand towel- always a nice, if standard, touch at a sushi bar. My visit came on a chilly Louisiana day, so I began with a pot of hot green tea. Service at Koto proved to be friendly, attentive and efficient... a highlight of this visit. The lunch bento box features a soup (your choice of miso or mushroom... this day, I chose mushroom) fried rice, house salad with ginger dressing, gyoza dumplings and a snow crab roll. The sushi offerings consisted of one piece each of tuna, salmon, crab stick, shrimp, and white fish.

The mushroom soup arrived first, a steaming, clear broth with floating slivers of white mushroom and bits of tempura batter. This was simple goodness and did not fail to satisfy. Next up came 'The Bomb'- billed as Chef Chang's signature creation. Described as grilled tuna inside a tempura roll, dressed in a homemade three-sauce combination, garnished with scallions, sesame seeds and masago. In the interest of disclosure, I can be something of a sushi purist. I'm not a sushi snob, though, and I have no problem eating non-authentic sushi (the ubiquitous California Roll, for example, certainly isn't Japanese.) I also recognize that Chang is known as kind of a sushi-fusion guy who likes to experiment- an admirable trait in the competitive commercial marketplace. It is with these things in mind that something like 'The Bomb' challenges me. When one thinks of Japanese food, one thinks of simple, light, succulent bits of food... balanced,clean, clear, fresh flavors balancing hot and cold, balancing the sweet, sour, salty, spicy and fifth realm of taste then Japanese call 'umami', meaning 'savory'. The bomb roll in many ways in the antithesis of this philosophy. It arrives deep-fried and a little heavy. It's grilled tuna takes away what would have been a wonderful contrast had the tuna been raw inside the warm crispy roll. A flavorful fish like tuna is lost beneath thick, sweet, cloying sauces that cover rather than enhance the taste of the fish. A fried roll such as this would be better served with something lighter and more astringent. Instead, it's a muddle of flavors where no one ingredient shines.

The Bento box was up next, featuring a pair of gyoza dumplings, warm and tasty. Alongside was an iceberg salad with ginger dressing that was enjoyable as well. Things went horribly south with the fried rice that accompanied the Bento box- dry, flavorless, almost stale. At best an afterthought, I found it wholly inedible. The snow crab roll, was a step back to the right direction, although the sweetness of snow crab is effectively lost when served as it is, minced and bound with Japanese mayo. The nigiri failed to impress, as well. None of the fish seemed especially fresh... the tuna lacked in flavor, the salmon was a bit slimy. The crab stick was safe enough as it is a processed food, but the white fish was a poor cut, containing a fair amount of the bloodline- yuk. The shrimp was similarly stale with touches of brown around the edges- a symptom of age. This was so off-putting, I had to eject only having eaten part of my meal.

Now, I'm no Philistine... and I realize that the Bento box is the sushi equivalent of a Happy Meal. Still, if it's on the menu and you charge a price for it, it should be good. Should you pay a visit to Koto, it may be wise to stick to some of the other rolls or go to the Hibachi. As for sushi, I've given Koto two chances, and in a town like Baton Rouge where sushi options grow by the day, that is probably enough.

Eat Baton Rouge Quick Bites- Juanita's III

If you are into Mexican food- the real deal, not Tex-Mex... do yourself a favor and head over to Juanita's Taqueria y Supermercado. Born on Muriel Drive off of Sherwood, it has grown into two more locations around town, Juanita's II on Perkins Road, and the brand-spanking-newest being located at the corner of Florida and Sharp in the location of the old, and creatively-named, I might add- "Chinese Restaurant".
Arrive hungry and order the Beef Burrito- a foot-long log of cheese-covered tortilla filled with flavorful rice and juicy, tender bits of carne asada which are the best I've encountered in Baston' Rojo. It comes garnished with shredded iceberg lettuce, sliced avocado and tomato, a handful of pickled peppers and crema (south-of-the-border sour cream.) At $7.99, it's a real bargain to boot. Check it out, and just point to the menu if you can't speak Spanish!

-Eat Baton Rouge-