Sunday, March 22, 2009

Bistro Byronz c'est magnifique.

BISTRO BYRONZ
5412 GOVERNMENT STREET
BATON ROUGE LOUISIANA 70806 - 225-218-1433

Hello again, Baton Rouge foodies.... EBR! is proud to bring you another report on the Capital City's most famous- and infamous- eateries.
We had the pleasure of revisiting one of our darlings- Bistro Byronz. We've come to appreciate the consistency and value Byronz provides, and our latest trip did not disappoint.
Byronz aspires to nail the brasserie aesthetic... replete in black and white tile, frosted glass and faux antique fixtures. Located in a renovated old house on Government Street, it makes for a comely combination of homey and chic.
We were greeted and seated promptly by a hostess decked out in a french white apron, and our orders were taken with little delay. Byronz features a brasserie-style menu featuring everything from the sandwiches which made the old Byronz famous, to hors d'oeuvres like the savory and delicious blue cheese chips,succulent salads like the Steak Frites salad (more on that later) soups, a la carte sides, and entrees.

Since there was a bit of a chill in the air the evening of our visit, we began with a pair of soups- the Corn & Shrimp ($4.45) and the Sweet Corn & Crab ($ 4.45). The Corn and Shrimp featured its star ingredients in a tomato-ey broth with a spicy kick. It's a bit jarring at first for those more accustomed to a sweeter corn and shrimp soup, but still satisfies with sinus-clearing blend of big, bold flavors. The Sweet Corn & Crab arrives as a thicker, cream based bisque with kernels of corn and chunks of claw crab meat suspended in it. Though a bit toothsome, this soup had great flavor and hit the spot.
In keeping with the comfort food angle we had working, Bistro Byronz's Pot Roast Creole ($13.95)was up next.A fresh green salad tossed in Byronz's house vinaigrette was followed with a hefty serving of fork-tender pot roast reeking of beefy, winy goodness. Accompanying it came the requisite side of garlic mashed potatoes with a flavorful gravy, and a serving of home style french green beans. This was a formidable meal in portion- big, stick-to-your ribs fare. While it was satisfying, it lacked any wow factor, any little thing that might truly set it apart and make it unique. One key ingredient, a little truffle oil or something similarly special would have taken this already good dish to the next level. We'd have liked to see them "chef it up" just a little. Still, we weren't disappointed.
We also tried the Steak Frites Salad, ($13.95) the salad version of Bistro Byronz popular brasserie staple, Steak Frites ($19.95). Seared and sliced Filet Mignon is served atop bed of crunchy romaine lettuce,topped with bleu cheese crumbles and a delicious cane vinaigrette. Layered on top of that is the hallmark of any decent brasserie worthy of the name- perfectly cooked, crispy, thin frites- what God intended French Fries to be. It may seem anathema to put fries on a salad,but here it's just what the doctor ordered- a salty, crunchy counter punch to the rich beef and pungent cheese, just screaming out for a glass of red to complete your trip to nirvana.
If the frites were cooked in duck fat, this dish would become truly otherworldly, but for now it will just have to settle for being the best salad in Baton Rouge.
We ended the evening over a piece of the Key Lime Pie ($5.95). It was a tasty finale, but not memorable... next time we might opt instead for the Heavenly Hash Supreme, or on a chilly night like this one, the Bistro Bread Pudding.
Bistro Byronz is a perfect date night stop that hits all the high notes- good, unpretentious food served in chic, charming atmosphere that won't break the bank, best of all. C'est Magnifique!
 
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